Friday, May 20, 2016

Building A Garden Storage Shed

Building a garden storage shed to store all the pool stuff during the winter

Difficulty Level (Easy, Medium, Hard, Insane):

We bought a 9' x 17' x 5' pool but since our kids are still a bit too small, we decided not to put it up this year but instead use our cheapo 12' round (2' deep) walmart pool for one more year. Running out of place to store our stuff and considering how many parts came with the new pool I decided to build a 3' by 8' garden shed right beside the area we'll be setting up the pool.

The process was pretty simple:

1. Prepare the site by stripping the sod and putting a 4" layer of gravel
2. Build the base with pressure treated 2x4s and a 3/4" OSB floor
3. Build the walls with 2x2s and 1/2" OSB sheathing
4. Build the roof with 2x4s and 1/2" OSB sheathing
5. Installing the trim around the roof edge
6. Installing the drip edge around the roof edge
7. Installing the tar paper & roof shingles
8. Installing the siding
9. Fitting and installing the doors
10. Installing the door hardware
11. Build the shelves
12. Paint the exterior


The lumber from home depot
Marking the site
Getting my boy to help me clean up the removed sod
Another view
Ready for the gravel
After the gravel base was laid
The base in its place
Framing the rear wall
Cutting up 2x2s
Sheathing the rear wall
Framing the side walls
Framing the front wall
Sheathing the front wall
Installing the roof
After the roof was sheathed
Installing Tyvek house wrap
The house wrap done
The tongue & groove boards used for siding
After the roof shingles were installed
Installing the wood siding
The siding almost done
Another view
The siding (minus the doors) done
Framing the doors
The siding and doors done
Close-up of the doors
After the shed was painted
Rear view of the shed before it was moved
Another view of the painted shed after it was moved against the fence
Both doors open
Another view
Close-up of the finished shed
From a bit further away
A view from the deck
Table saw
Chop saw
Measuring tape & pencil
Framers square
Poly square
Garden rake
Wheel barrow
Air compressor
Framing nail gun
Staple gun
Hand stapler
Crow bar
Cordless drill
Extension chords
Saw horses
Pipe clamps
Roofing nail gun
Tin snips
Hand planer
Circular saw
Yard wagon
HLVP paint gun

7 - 4x8 - 1/2" OSB
2 - 4x8 - 1/2" OSB
2 - 2x4 - 8' PT
2 - 2x4 - 12' PT
10 - 2x4 - 8'
4 - 2x4 - 12'
Narrow crown staples 1-1/4"
3-1/4" galvanized framing nails
3-1/4" regular framing nails
2-3/8" galvanized framing nails
2-3/8" regular framing nails
1/2 roll of roofing nails
1 pack of shingles
80 - 1x6 - 8' tongue & groove boards for siding
4 hinges
2 door latches
1-1/4" deck screws
2" deck screws
3" deck screws
1 gal of deck stain


30 hrs


Although it looks great and is very solid and quite a bit cheaper than a cheapo home depot or Canadian Tire garden shed, I'd probably buy the next one instead of making it as I don't really enjoy building these kinds of things anymore and it took a LOT longer than I anticipated.

Tuesday, May 17, 2016

Arbor for Burke #4 Horizontal Mill

Making a new arbor used on a #4 Burke horizontal mill

Difficulty Level (Easy, Medium, Hard, Insane):

I got a call from the same gentleman whom I made the Replacement Gear for 1974 Okuma Lathe for saying he had bought a #4 Burke horizontal mill but that the arbor was badly damaged and whether I could make him a new one.

The process was pretty simple:

1. Cut up a piece of 1.500" 4140 on my Metal Band Saw and chucked it up in my lathe
2. Center drilled both ends and mounted between centers
3. Turn shaft down to 1.250"
4. Turn 7.750" from the tail stock end down to 1.002" diameter and sand/polish down to 0.999"
5. Turn 2.375" from the tail stock end down to 5/8" and thread at 18TPI
6. Turn 1.750" from the tail stock down to 0.502" and sand/polish to 0.500"
7. Flip shaft around and put a B&S #9 taper (4.250" long, 0.800" on small end, 1.072" on large end" using the Digital Calipers Mounted on the Tail Stock
8. Sand/polish taper
9. Drill, bore and thread a 1/2" x 13 TPI internal thread for the draw bar
10. Mount arbor in milling vise and cut a 3/16" key way

I was glad to have the Cool Mist System for the heavier turning because 4140 work hardens pretty quickly so I was able to keep the temperature fairly cool. However, I did learn something the hard way. When using a slitting saw to cut a keyway on a shaft, cooling alone is not sufficient. I had the cool mist system spray (plain) water on the slitting saw and it worked great for about 60% of the length of the keyway but then something happened and it completely chewed up the teeth on my slitting saw. After spending a good hour sharpening the HSS slitting saw I decided to skip the cool mist but go back to the regular cutting oil and lo and behold, it worked like a charm. So, I will definitely go buy some water soluble cutting fluid designed for cutting to hopefully avoid that the next time.


The old arbor
Close-up of the damaged arbor and thread
The B&S #9 taper with a 1/2" x 13TPI draw bar internal thread
Cutting off 13.250" of 4140 bar on my metal band saw
Doing some rough turning to get rid of the rust
Mounting between centers and turning the shaft to 1.250"
Using my mist coolant to keep the work piece cool
Another view of the mist coolant system (temporary setup)
The polished shaft
The shoulder which the cutter and/or spacers rest against
Getting ready to thread a 5/8" x 18 TPI
The threading setup
Chamfering the sharp edges
Cutting the taper end
The extension for my diy lathe dog
Another view of the lathe dog
The digital calipers mounted on the tail stock for easy resetting to zero
A different angle of when I was cutting the taper
The finished and sanded taper
Using the cool mist system for drilling the hole for the draw bar
Tapping the 1/2" x 13 TPI internal draw bar thread in the taper end
Another view
Close-up of the threaded hole
Dialing in the slitting saw
Dialing in the shaft
Another view
Cutting the 3/16" keyway
Another view
The old and new arbors side by side
Another view
Another view
Another view
The finished arbor
Another view
Close-up of the taper end
Close-up of the cutter end
Another view
Close-up of the keyway
Diagram with measurements
Metal lathe & accessories
Metal Band Saw
Mist Coolant System
Digital Caliper Setup on tail stock
Emery cloth
Tap & die set

13.250" of 1.500" diameter 4140

8 hrs

Looks beautiful; I love my lathe!