Saturday, January 4, 2014

Sony CyberShot (DSC-TX10) Battery Door Latch

Project:
Fix the battery door latch for Melanie's Sony CyberShot DSC-TX10 camera.

Difficulty Level (Easy, Medium, Hard, Insane):
Medium

Process:
The little plastic latch that holds the battery door compartment shut broke off over the years of usage and a replacement door was about $50 bucks online. So I decided to see if I can fix it for free and it worked!

The first thing and also the trickiest was to take off the little plastic trim around the camera. Since it was also just plastic I didn't want to go too fast and possibly break it so it took me a little longer than it would take me the second time around.

Once I was able to remove all the plastic from the metal part of the battery compartment door I went to my shop and cut up a small piece (4mm by 5mm) of 18 gauge sheet metal, bent it a little bit with some pliers and then brazed it to the battery compartment door. After putting all the plastic trims back on it was as good as new.

Pictures:
The temporary fix until I had some time to do it properly
The piece of plastic that was broken off was at the top of the latch
Taking the trim and cover off
Another picture of all the pieces that came off
The little piece of sheet metal brazed to the door latch
And from the other side
Once the orange water seal and the black plastic trim was put back on
All done
Tools:
Small screwdriver set
Swiss army knife
Pliers
Welding torch

Materials:
small piece of 18 gauge sheet metal
a little bit from a bronze brazing rod

Cost:
$0.00

Time:
2hrs

Savings:
$50.00

Conclusion:
Works great and it definitely won't break EVER again!

10 comments:

mel said...

thanks again for fixing it, mr. fix everything!

Ignazio Faranda said...

Hi Chris, let me say: nice job! But then let me ask you one more thing.... I do have the same camera with some crack in the plastic frame around the display... for your experience in taking it apart... do you think this may be an issue for the waterproofing of the camera, or it's just an aesthetic part which has nothing to do with this camera feature?
I'm asking you because the official tech said he doesn't know.... thanks in advance for your reply. bye

Chris Eigenheer said...

Ignazio, I have wondered the same thing because my trim was cracked as well, but when I took it apart it didn't look like the plastic trim had any sort of water proofing funcion but was only there to make the camera more aestetically pleasing. Although I haven't tested it, I do believe that a crack in that trim around the display does NOT have any bearings on the water proof-ness. You can look at the 3rd and 4th picture and you'll see an orange gasket that goes around the internal electronics and the plastic trim did NOT have any such seal which is the reason I'm confident that a crack in that trim does not affect the water-proof-ness. Hope this helps.

6806e3e8-2e6f-11e4-b43e-073e31c837b1 said...

Hi Chris,

I have the same problem and can't find parts for that door. Is it possible to buy a that metal piece from you?

Chris Eigenheer said...

To the post above, if you want to email me your phone number I'll call to get your address. I don't mind shipping you a little piece but it was just taken from a scrap piece of 18 gauge sheet metal. you can probably cut a piece off a can of fruit and braze (solder) it to your door.

Anonymous said...

I have a similar repair I need to do, replace the HDMI door. I was able to source the part, but I can't figure out how to take the camera apart to get the door off. Is there something obvious I am missing after removing the exterior screws? In what order was your take apart?

Chris Eigenheer said...

@anonymous above, if you read through my instructions it might give you some more info. the trick is the plastic trim. just go slow and pry it off, then you'll see the screws to take it apart. hope it helps. chris

Anonymous said...

Hi Chris I'm trying to repair my door, but I'm having trouble getting the solder to stick to the metal of the door. Any advice on method? What temp does the iron need to be u think?

Chris Eigenheer said...

@anonymous above, I think I actually used a bronze brazing rod and my oxy/acetylene torch to get the temperatures high enough. I'm not sure a regular soldering iron will get the metal hot enough to adhere the solder. however, you might be able to make it work with a propane torch you can buy for $15 at home depot. i would think that should get the parts hot enough for the solder to stick. just make sure you put lots of flux on it.

Anonymous said...

thankyou Chris. I think you're right I'll give that a go thanks.

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