Friday, September 5, 2014

Concrete Borders for Trees

Project:
Creating concrete borders around the trees in our back yard

Difficulty Level (Easy, Medium, Hard, Insane):
Easy

Process:
Since we've had the opportunity to buy a second lot behind our house in 2009 we have steadily been planting a couple of trees each year bringing us up to almost 20 as of now. A few years back I put some black mulch around the trees but it never really looked right. I've always wanted to put a little extra professional touch on our landscaping and have been doing some research as to how to best do that.

I've concluded that the best cost/benefit solution would be to pour my own concrete borders around the trees and fill the inside with mulch. This would serve (at least) three purposes:

1. Create a neat edge around the tree
2. Simplify mowing the lawn around the mulch
3. Upgrade our landscaping

A few days ago I decided to finally start on this project. The first thing I did was take a metal rod that I reclaimed from an old patio umbrella (I think), bent one end to go around the small tree trunks and taped some marking spray at the other end. I made one of those contraptions 24" long (creating a 48" diameter) and one at 30" (creating a 5 foot circle).

After I mowed the lawn and sprayed the circles on the freshly cut lawn, I used my circular saw with a custom blade to cut through the top 2-3 inches of sod along the spray painted lines. Next, I used a pick axe to cut off a 6 inch strip of sod to a depth of about 2-3 inches.

Lastly, I cut a 2 inch strip of 1/8" particle board and formed a circle to give me the proper height and make it a bit rounder than if I just did it by eye.

After I poured the first batch though I realized that the 1/8" particle board pretty much disintegrated after being exposed to the wet concrete. The ring itself turned out ok but since there was no way to re-use the strips and the set-up was fairly time consuming I had to come up with a better solution.

I ended up buying 40' of 1.5" x 1/8" flat iron and had a shop put a bend in it for $5 cash. Then I welded some pieces of angle iron to the metal so I could hook them into pieces of wood to hold up the metal ring.

After some fiddling around and cutting up some spacers to keep the border nice and consistent I mixed up the concrete, poured and troweled it. Then, after about an hour or two I used one of the rubber stamping mats I had created when I did my concrete driveway back in 2009 to stamp some texture into the concrete.

The next day I removed the border and cleaned up the edges a little bit. A day after that, I cut the expansion joints with a diamond blade and my angle grinder, sealed the concrete with some tinted concrete sealer (decra-seal) that was left over from the concrete driveway project.

The last thing to do was to cut out the sod on the inside of the concrete ring, place some landscaping fabric down and fill it up with black mulch.

I am very pleased with how it turned out but I still have 18 more to go so that should keep me busy for the next 3 weeks!

Pictures:

My first attempt at creating a form out of 1/8" hardboard
Closeup
Another closeup. You can see the metal wire I used to tie the borders to the supporting pieces of wood
Welding the hooks to one half of the small ring
Close-up of the hook used to hold up the ring
I used 6 for the small ring and 8 for the larger ring
Laying it out on the shop floor to ensure it's nice and round
Close-up of how I joined the two halves by using one piece of supporting wood to hold the rings up and together
Another close-up of a regular support
Metal spacers to keep the rings nice, round and parallel
A close-up of the spacer
Another view
The cherry tree almost ready for the concrete
Spacers in place, ready for the concrete
After the concrete was placed and trowled out
A view from a little farther apart
After the concrete has cured for two days and the forms have been removed
You can see the texture really nice in this picture
A close-up of the finished concrete
Using a 3' diameter piece of tar paper folded in half, in half, and in half again to give 8 equal parts to space out the expansion joints evenly (and yes, I aligned them with the cardinal directions)
After the expansion joints were cut
A view of the whole tree




A view from the upstairs window

Tools:
Angle grinder
MIG welder
Drill
Pick axe
Shovel
Wheel barrow
Circular saw
Extension chords
Measuing tape
Pencil
Ear muffs
Protective eye wear
Diamond blade for angle grinder
Knife
Table saw
Side cutters

Materials:
Marking spray
40' of 1.5" x 1/8" flat iron
4" of 1" x 1" angle iron cut into 1/8" pieces for hooks
Scrap wood
Scrap laminate flooring
Wire
Gravel, sand & cement for concrete

Cost:
Metal forms: about $30.0
Each tree ring: about $5.00 for the concrete

Time:
Making the metal forms: about 2hrs
Each tree ring: about 2-3hrs

Savings:
No idea how much it would cost to have a landscaping company make these but I'm guessing at least $200 per tree which would come out to about $4000 in total.

Conclusion:
Love it, makes it SO much nicer and neater to look at now!

Tuesday, August 19, 2014

Inline Desiccant Air Dryer

Project:
Build an inline desiccant air dryer for my shop to use for painting and sand blasting

Difficulty Level (Easy, Medium, Hard, Insane):
Medium

Process:
The most difficult part was by far to figure out how it works and then getting all the little pieces to put it together. The second hardest part was to weld all the parts together so they're air tight but let's start at the beginning.

I built a sand blasting cabinet about two years ago in preparation for my cucciolo restoration. Last year my neighbor found out about it and since he's restoring a mustang he asked me if he could use my sand blaster. This wasn't an issue during the winter but I've found out that during the summer the humidity clogs up the sand. In my research I learned that an air dryer  would/should solve the problem.

There were lots of small cheapo air dryers out there and then there were some more heavy duty versions such as the first picture below. Since I didn't want to spend over $250 for one of these including about $100 for two filters and $40 for the proprietary (#2 below) desiccant tablets I figured I'd try to build one myself.

As for drying agents (desiccant) inside, there are basically three common types:

1. Silica gel
2. Proprietary tablets
3. Activated alumina

Since #1 and #2 are very expensive AND #3 can be re-generated in an oven at 400 degrees for a few hours I decided to buy 10lbs on ebay for $40 bucks.

It was actually quite hard finding parts/materials for this project and I ended up using an old telepost I had lying around for the main pipe.

The way these dryers work is by filtering the air first, then slowing down the air speed in the large tube and run it through the activated alumina which adsorbs the moisture (adsorb = water sticks to the porous alumina), then runs it through a post-filter and out to the sand blaster or paint gun.

Pictures:
The dryer from princess auto or harbour freight
Diagram of the inline dryer
The package I got from ebay
The view into the top of the pipe
After I welded the top and bottom flange to the pipe
A close up of the welded flange
The spacer at the bottom keeps the desiccant from touching the condensated water at the bottom
After it was painted
First step done and painted
A close-up of where the intake filter attaches to the dryer
After the intake and post-filters were installed
I added a secondary silica gel air dryer as a gauge of when the activated alumina is saturated. The blue silica gel turns pink when it's saturated; that's how I know the activated alumina is no longer removing any air
The pipe that brings the dry air back down lower so it's easier to plug in tools
After the return pipe was installed
Close-up of the intake filter and the exit coupler
I had to make some custom gaskets for the top and bottom flange for which I attached a scalpel knife to my Swiss compass and cut circles out of modeling clay
Close-up of the cutting of the first layer of modeling clay
The two gasket "molds" ready for pouring of the polyurethane rubber
After the polyurethane rubber (reo-flex40 from smooth-on) was poured into the molds
Close-up of one of the gaskets after it was "poured"
16 hours later, the custom rubber gaskets were ready
Placing one of the gaskets on the top flange
After it was all done and installed on my shop wall ready for many hours of dry air
Tools:
Measuring tape
Pen
Grease pencil
Pencil
Angle grinder
Ear muffs
Safety glasses
Drill
Drill press
Compass
Rolling pin
Oxy/Acetylene torch
MIG welder
Hammer
Screw drivers
Tap & die set
Adjustable wrenches
Channel lock pliers
Needle nose pliers
Bench top grinder
Bench top belt sander
Metal scribe
Square
Vise
Center punch

Materials:
One telepost
9" by 9" piece of 3/16" scrap metal
Three 1/4 NPT pipe nipples
Two 1/4 NPT elbows
Two air filters ($40 each)
Assorted scrap metal
2ft of 1/2 black pipe
5lbs of activated alumina ($40)
Polyurethane rubber (reo-flex40 from smooth-on)
Eight 5/16-18 bolts (3/4" long)
Black paint
Pipe sealant

Cost:
$140.00

Time:
15hrs

Savings:
$110.00

Conclusion:
Works great so far

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