It was brought to my attention (thanks Richard) that there were some discrepancies in my measurements. The correct steel dimensions are as follows:
Angle Iron: 2.000" by 2.000" by 0.250"
Square tubing: 1.500" by 1.500" by 0.125"
Project:
I couldn't stand squeezing into the tight space under the car when I had to do some repairs so I figured I'd build myself a nice heavy duty car ramp that stows away into a 4' x 8' x 3' work bench. The real reason that started this was that a few years back one of the brake lines of our car burst and within one week a break line on the other car burst because of rust. However, because I did not have the proper setup I ended up having to pay $180 TIMES TWO to get them fixed. That's when I decided that instead of letting this happen again, I'd invest some money into building a real car ramp, 20 feet long to fit any vehicle (an 8' up-ramp followed by a 12' horizontal ramp), 16" wide and 20" high. Needless to say aside from using it on many occasions for our own vehicles, I've even used it to replace one of my father in law's van's wheel bearings and my brother in law's truck's lower ball joint so the ramp has paid for itself probably almost (if not more than) 10 times.
Process:
The plan was to build a ramp in sections so that when it is not being used it can be stacked into a compact "box", place a sheet of MDF on top and use it as a 4' by 8' work island at a comfortable 36" height. The dimensions worked out so that I had two 8' sections, two 4' sections and four 4' up-ramp sections, each one 16" wide and 20" high
Videos:
Pictures:
The main section consists of an 8' piece and a 4' piece, the ramp consists of two 4' pieces
My guess is that the load capacity of these ramps is well over 5000 lbs.
Stacked up into a 4' by 8' by 36" high box
My goal was to end up with a 36" high table that I can simply put a 4'x8' sheet of MDF on as a work area and extension bench for my table saw
Here's a closer view of all the pieces stacked together on the 8' long pieces
The final shop island working surface
It's amazing how often I use this extra 32 square feet of work surface for my projectsTools:
Grinder, measuring tape, soap stone marker, bench grinder, clamps, welder, table saw, powder actuated fastener gun, hammer
Materials:
94' of 1.500" x 1.500" x 1/8" square steel tubing
80' of 2"x2"x1/4" angle iron
67' of 1"x1"x1/8" angle iron
half a pack of welding electrodes
5 sheets of 3/8" OSB
1 sheet of 5/8" MDF
1 sheet of formica/arborite
Cost:
$429.75
Time:
Approximately 25 hrs
Savings:
About $3200 so far (in car repairs I was able to do myself instead of having to pay someone $90 bucks/hr)
27 comments:
You`re quite the Handyman Chris! :)
Oh great, I am sure this is just another "must have" that Shawn will want.... Thanks bro!
Looking at it, I think some diagonal bracing might be a useful addition... stop it collapsing along it's longitudinal length or even across the width...
great job man, i was looking to find some pics of some ramps to build, then bang ! i came across your blog and now i know how to design and build some. too good - thanks,
chase
Chris nice job man! I have a question. If you wanted to make a one piece 12' center section supported only at the ends what material would you use?
@Anonymous, I'm not sure what size material you'd have to use to support that much weight over a 12' span. You'd probably need some pretty heavy duty I-beams or some square tubing or c-channels...
looks like something I want to make, but some discrepancies in the specs:
1) the drawing specs 1.5x1.5x1/4" angle iron but the list of materials specs 1.5x1.5x1/8"
2) the drawing specs 2x2x1/8" square tubing but the list of materials specs 1.5.15.x.25"
Which did you actually make?
@Richard Mandel, thank you for pointing out the discrepancy. The angle iron is 2" by 2" by 1/4" and the square tubing is 1.500" by 1.500" by 1/8".
Sorry, but looking at this, did you exchange the names? Shouldn't the angle be 1.5" x 1.5" x 1/8" and the square tubing be 2" x 2" x 1/4"?
@Richard Mandel, no, I actually double checked. The angle iron is 2x2x1/4 and the square tubing is 1.5x1.5x1/8
Hi. I'm assuming that the (94') is the quantity of 1.500" x 1.500" x 1/8" square steel tubing ?
@Anonymous, yes, you're correct. 94' of 1.5x1.5x1/8 square steel tubing.
Thanks mate. Now to convert everything to metric.
Hello Chris just a small doubt dont we need to add a cross beam to avoid any collapse of the system in case of swings when the vehicle loads up. Kind of a safety protections against swings even when the vehicle is being serviced they can be just small scissors like what they use for scafolding. or a cross brace
my two cent worth Sharad
Is the wood necessary? I'm wondering if you could have mounted the support angle iron on top and just driven across the ridges?
i was considering doing that but I would have had to use a lot more angle iron across and the drive up/down would not be as smooth. I'd use the wood again if I was to rebuild it...
Looks great, I love that it converts to a workbench when stowed away.
Been awhile, did you die under that thing yet? no cross bracing = death trap.
I love your blog name and you are a smart guy
I agree that omitting fore to aft diagonal bracing is a serious safety issue. Please consider adding it. It's basic engineering for strength and stability.
This is a death trap. You should know better than to omit any kind of bracing. All you need to do is to add a section of angle or 1/4" X 2" flat stock to each corner and a section at a 45 degree angle on each end. Measure the center of each end then measure down on each leg the same amount. Cut the sections on a forty five on both ends and weld them in. Do the same on both sides on both ends with the long side of section to be around 18" and this will be a lot better than a cross brace and not in your way when getting under the vehicle. You said that you changed a wheel bearing. How in the heck did you jack up the wheel to do it? You need to fabricate a jack support that goes from one side to the other but make it out of 3/8" for the needed support. Anyway, nice job over all, just needs some fine tuning.
Please show us how you lift and remove a wheel to work in brakes or axle bearings.
Don't want to poop on your parade but you would be wise to forget about used OSB/aspenite and go heavier.
/thicker with good plywood for stability and longevity. Much safer
Really should have some triangulation -- laterally weak without it.
This is great i have been trying to come up with something so simple but strong like this. Great job.
Great idea and build. Thank you!
I don’t like the fact you have no cross braces going from to back between each leg the weight/force going up the ramp could make those legs fold over.
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