Ducati Cucciolo Kickstand

Project:
Create 4 kickstands and brackets for the ducati cucciolo.

Difficulty Level (Easy, Medium, Hard, Insane):
Medium

Process:
This one was actually quite tricky because the brackets that screw into the cucciolo engine was originally created with a sand-cast/injection mold process. It had three different directions and not just up and down like most casts so when mom & dad came for a visit last month we must have spent 3 or 4 hours staring at that part and thinking how the heck we'd be able to cast this part.

After they went back home life got busy and a month later I finally decided to give it a go. The kickstand bracket was so complex that I ended up having to weld a metal insert just so I could position the part onto my sand mold without it tipping over.

First step was to fill in the drag, set the kickstand bracket with the metal insert on it and fill in the cope (top part). Afterwards I flipped it over and pulled out the bracket with the metal insert.

Second step was to put the kickstand bracket back into the mold and fill up the cavity that the metal insert left with sand/sodium silicate to create the core with the ribs on the side.

Third step, empty the drag, put it upside down on the cope and fill it with green sand.

Step four, take off the drag (which is now on top), flip it over to where it belongs, pull the kickstand bracket (with the core) out of the cope

Step five, pull the core out of the kickstand bracket and set it flat on the drag

Step six, clean up the cope, cut the runner, the in-gates, etc and put the cope back on top of the drag

Do this 6 times in a row! Took me about an hour the first time and by the end I got each mold made in about 45 minutes, not including the actual casting

Step seven was the fun part: melting aluminum and filling it into the mold, wait for 30 minutes and shake out the mold.

Step eight was cleaning up the casts with the table saw, a SS rasp and lastly with the angle grinder.

Phew, I am glad it's done! Now I can ship them off to England and Quebec where the guys live are that ordered them...

Pictures:

Welded metal insertto fill in the gap in the kickstand bracket and to keep it from wiggling

Insert in the bracket

Put the bracket, runner and risers on the drag

Baby powder to keep the cope sand from sticking to the drag sand

Put the cope frame on

Filling the cope with sand

After cope was filled and compacted

After cope was scraped off

Separate the cope and the drag to reveal the bracket, metal insert, runner and risers

Pulling the metal insert out of the bracket

The metal insert after it was removed

Pulling out the bracket

After the bracket was pulled out

put the bracket back into the cope

Using silica sand and sodium silicate (40%)

Using CO2 to harden the sand

Silica sand/sodium silicate core in the cope

Baby powder drag and putting the drag on top of the cope

After drag was compacted with green sand

Drag was scraped off

Separate the cope and drag

Pull the bracket with the sand core out of the cope

Remove the core from the bracket

Placing the core back on the drag

Preparing the in-gate and risers

Firing up the furnace and pour

After 30 minutes, shake out the parts

The rough cast

Amazing how the details of the screw shows up

The spent cores

After clean-up. The bottom center is the original bracket

The ridges that made this part so ridiculously hard to cast

Another angle

Turned out quite nice I must say

The legs that go with the brackets. I only made 4 last month with my dad

Another view of the kickstand legs

Tools:
Foundry furnace
Green sand
Copes and drags
MIG welder
Oxy/Acetylene torch
Angle grinder
Ear muffs
Goggles
Gloves
Knife
Spatula for the auto body filler
Markers
Measuring tape
Channel lock pliers
Hammer
Table saw
SS rasp
Screw driver

Materials:
4" piece of 2" pipe for the metal insert
Auto body fillerfor the metal insert
Aluminum cutting oil
Silica sand
Sodium silicate
CO2 tank

Time:
15hrs total (10hrs for brackets, 5hrs for kickstand legs)

Conclusion:
I hope it is acceptable to the people that ordered it.

Trench Drain

Project:
Building a trench drain in front of my friend/co-worker's garage

Difficulty Level (Easy, Medium, Hard, Insane):
Easy

Process:
After spending about 15 hours on research and calculations and preparing to actually do the job I went to a scrap yard and scored some galvanized metal grate. They were quite heavy, about 200lbs, 3feet wide and 9 feet long. I cut them into twelve 8" wide by 3' long pieces.

Next thing was building the forms for the actual trench. Normally you buy pre-fabricated channels but since they quoted me $2500 just for the trenches I had to look for some alternative ways to get it done. I ended up building a gradually increasing T-shaped chanel out of 1/2" OSB. I made four 8' pieces and one 4' piece.

On the actual job site, I had to cut the asphalt with a diamond blade. Originally I was going to rent one of those walk-behind saws that you can hook up to a garden hose but since the asphalt was only about 2.5" thick I was able to save 2hrs of driving back and forth to pick up and return the rental machine and use my own angle grinder with my 7" diamond blade. It worked like a charm although I must say that my arms were quite vibrated after the 45 minutes it took me to make the cut.

Next, I used a sledge hammer to demolish the asphalt and then a heavy pick axe to loosen it. After picking up the pieces and wheeling them away in my wheel barrow it was time to use the pick axe again to loosen the gravel underneath.

I measured the correct slope of the trench drain and snapped a chalk line against the side of the existing garage slab to make placing the concrete a bit easier.

Once the gravel was shoveled out and leveled, the ends were capped off and prepared, the pre-fabricated forms were placed in the trench to test I was ready to order the concrete.

Once the concrete showed up I just had to wheel it in with the wheel barrow, level it out with a square shovel, place the pre-fabricated OSB forms and fill in the sides.

Once that was all done, I used a trowel to finish it all up nice and neat. After cleaning the asphalt with a pressure washer my son and I (who helped me out all day) were ready to go home.

After 3 days of letting the concrete cure, Nathaniel and I went back to take out the forms, put in the metal grate, dig the 4" drain tile into the yard as a run-off and clean up. After all was said and done I have to say that it looked pretty darn amazing! I was very proud of my boy and with how the entire job turned out.


Videos:

 
Pictures:

Some of my calculations

Some of my scouting pictures

My daughter helping me out

Another view of where it will go

The galvanized metal grate I found at the scrap yard

Eliana making sure it's acceptable quality

After the pieces have been cut up and deburred

A close-up of one of the trench forms. The very bottom piece was cut at an angle so it could be removed easily after the concrete was cured

Making sure they fit together properly

All done and waiting for placement

About 15 minutes after we started

The asphalt I cracked with the sledge hammer

Nathaniel helping me out

It was coming out quite nicely

Proud helper after we were ready for the concrete pouring

Close-up of the change-over to the drain tile

After the forms were placed to make sure they fit

Cool shot of the chalk line from within the trench

Another view of the prepared trench, ready for the concrete

Having some lunch while waiting for the concrete truck to show up

After the concrete was placed and finish trowled

Close-up of the drain exit. The green "T" was to tie the gutter down spout into the drain tile

Starting to dig the trench to place the drain tile

Nathaniel helping me to remove the forms

Half-way done removing the forms

Testing the slope with some water

After placing the galvanized iron grate

After the drain tile was dug into the ground and covered up again

Nate posing with the finished project

Close-up of the drain

Another close-up

The finished trench drain

Another view

And another one

Last view

Tools:
Angle grinder
Metal cutting blade
Diamond blade
Table saw
Chop saw
Air stapler
Eye protection
Ear protection
Gloves
Square
Markers
Measuring tape
Sledge hammer
Pick axe
Chalk line
Hammer
Level
Jig saw
Drill
Regular shovel
Square shovel
Wheel barrow
Finish trowel
Crow bar
Broom

Materials:
Glue
Nails
Screws
3 sheets of 1/2" OSB
10 strips of 5/8" MDF
Five 16" long 2x2s to hold up OSB forms
String

Time:
Somewhere between 32 and 38 hours

Conclusion:
It looks really nice. We'll find out next spring if it really works as planned