Wednesday, June 8, 2016

Building a Harmonograph for Science Fair

Difficulty Level (Easy, Medium, Hard, Insane):
Medium

Process:
For our second annual home schooling science fair, we decided to introduce our son to harmonics and machining by building a harmonograph. I had seen my first harmonograph many decades ago in a science museum in Switzerland and having a significant background in mathematics I have always been fascinated by those machines that create beautiful, yet mathematically predictable pictures.

Aside from teaching him how harmonics work, how two one-dimensional axes (x-axis & y-axis) can interact to make a two dimensional image I wanted to introduce him to work on the lathe as well as to teach him how to be consistent, determined and “suffer” through the “boring” spots in the creation of a project.

There are several people online that have created these out of wood and i have made a few of these myself with small sticks of wood joined together by rubber bands, but this time around I wanted him to create something a little more substantial.

The pendulums were made from ½” solid round bar, the pivot points were made from 1” diameter teflon held together by 1/8” roll pins. The table was made out of 5/8” MDF and the horizontal arms that joined the pendulums to the pen were made out of ½” wood dowels.

The first thing we had to do is cut two 1” pieces of 2” diameter pipe, then drill and tap two holes on oposite sides. The next thing was to cut two 12” pieces of metal and turn a pivot point in the end. Then, we had to thread a ½” by 13 TPI thread to connect the pivot point pieces to the round pipe.

The next thing was to cut two ½” pieces of solid round bar and thread one end to a ½” by 13 TPI thread to connect to the second hole in the round pipe. After that, we cut up the wood dowels and drilled two holes for the cotter pins.

Then, we had to turn three pivots and a pen holder out of teflon. The last thing was to create two pendulum weights with a brass adjusting screw.

After cutting a 32” round table with the router and the circle attachment I made from some plexi glass many years ago it was ready to put together.

Videos:


Pictures:
Nate cutting off the first two pieces on my metal band saw
Working hard at tapping the 1/2" by 13 TPI female thread
Ninja Nate
The two cut, drilled and tapped pieces
Proud boy
Turning a pivot point in one of the pendulums
Working the lathe
The first pendulum finished
He said he was Loki with his weapon. What a kid!
Close-up of the pendulum suspension method
Making the pendulum weight adjustment knob
Getting ready to mill the teflon pivot connectors
Drilling the holes on the mill
I think he liked it
Some of the samples
Some of the exhibits from the story above
Nate making some pictures
The judges from Mad Science observing his project
Nate demonstrating how it works to the judges
Some participants trying it out for themselves
The award ceremony
The price he won for his participation
Close-up of one of the pictures
Another one
Another one
The pen mounting contraption
A triple color picture
Tools:
Metal Band Saw
Metal lathe & accessories
Measuring tape
Drill press
Drill bits
Cordless drill
De-burring tool
Angle grinder
Bench top grinder
Center punch
Hammer
Square
Router
Circle attachment for router

Materials:
2” of 2” diameter pipe
6’ of ½” solid round bar
8” of 2-1/2” solid round bar
4” of 1” diameter solid round brass
12” of 1” round teflon
3’ by 4’ of 5/8” MDF
8” of ¼” by 1” flat bar
Three 1/8” roll pins
4’ of ½” wood dowel

Cost:
$35.00 (for the MDF; I didn't have any on hand)

Time:
20 hrs

Conclusion:
The project was a great success and we had so many kids absolutely fascinated that two pendulums could create such elaborate drawings with no electricity!

Creating a Sod Cutter Attachment for Lawn Roller

Project:
Making a sod cutter attachement to be used with my lawn tractor and lawn roller

Difficulty Level (Easy, Medium, Hard, Insane):
Medium

Process:
After having finished the Storage Shed for all our pool stuff, the next thing on my list was to prepare the base for our pool. In order to do so I had to remove the sod in our back yard. However, renting a sod cutter cost about $100 bucks plus a couple of hours picking it up and dropping it off again and cutting the sod by hand was way more work than I wanted to do myself. Also, I called a local excavation business and they quoted me almost $1000 to cut the sod and remove it so that was out of the question.

After some research online I saw some people that used a manual sod cutter behind a lawn tractor but since I already had a Pull-Behind Lawn Roller I figured I’d make an attachment that uses the weight of the lawn roller and the power of the lawn tractor do do it for me.

After several hours of thinking/planning and a few different tries I finally found a version that worked. Granted, it didn’t work as well as I initially thought and I ended up having to employ the help of my wife to drive the lawn tractor while I stood on the lawn roller “tongue” and engaged/disengaged the sod cutter.

After everything was said and done, it took us about 20 minutes to cut a 10’ by 20’ area. It would have definitely helped if the grass was a bit more even, but towards the end we got a pretty good handle on how to do it. Now, if I ever have to cut sod again I can just re-attach the sod cutter and save another $100 bucks! Works for me!

Videos:

Note: Please pardon the video quality; my camera was acting up and I didn't notice it until I was ready to upload the video. I decided to post it anyways to get a view of the mechanism in action


Note: Please pardon the video quality; my 8 year old was taking it for me as my hands were full


Pictures:
The main horizontal blade
The lawn roller before I got started
Another view of the lawn roller
The area that needed to be sod-cut
Cutting some pipe on the metal band saw
The sod cutter blade assembly done
Close-up of the cutting blade assembly
Test-fitting the sod cutter assembly guide pipes
Another view of the guide pipes
After the guide pipes were welded in place
One part of the sod cutter blade lowering mechanism
The lowering mechanism test-fitted
After the 2" stubs were welded to the frame
Another view of the 2" stubs
Marking, center-punching and drilling another part of the lowering mechanism
Cutting more pieces for the lowering mechanism
The finished assembly in its mid-spot
The sod cutter assembly raised to the top
Another view of the raised sod cutter assembly
The locking hook for locking the sod cutter in its down position. I did not end up using it.
Another view of the lowered sod cutter
My wife helping me with the cutting action
Almost done
Another  view of my gorgeous wife
Getting ready to clean up the sod and dirt
The way I left it when it started pouring rain
Tools:
Metal Band Saw
Drill press
Angle grinder
MIG welder
Measuring tape
Drill press
Drill bits
Cordless drill
De-burring tool
Oxy-Acetylene torch
Bench top grinder
Center punch
Hammer
Square

Materials:
4’ of ¾” x ¾” steel pipe
2’ of 1” x 1” steel pipe
3’ of ½” solid round bar
Six cotter pins
12” of ¼” by 2” flat bar
12” of 3/16”  by 1-1/2” flat bar

Cost:
$15.00

Time:
6 hrs

Savings:
$100.00 each time I user it

Conclusion:
It works great. It does require two people to operate but that could probably be eliminated by putting some extra weight on the lawn roller tongue.

Fixing Our T-FAL Toaster (Type 87447.7)

Difficulty Level (Easy, Medium, Hard, Insane):
Easy

Process:
My wife told me the other day that our toaster had stopped working. After some investigation I found out that the toaster still did actually work, but the latch that kept the toaster engaged did not. If I pressed down on the lever that turns the toaster on, the heating element would heat up and work as expected, but as soon as I let go it would stop.

Last night I decided to take it apart and have a look at it. I hauled out the security bits I had bought a few years ago on ebay for a couple of bucks, loosened the 6 screws holding the cover together, pried off the darkness adjustment knob as well as the toaster engagement lever with my Swiss Army Knife and what I found absolutely shocked me! There must have been about 2 full cups of crumbs inside of the toaster, some of which ended up getting stuck between the electromagnet that kept the toaster handle engaged.

After cleaning it all out and blowing off the remaining crumbs in my shop with my compressor I tested it and it was back to working order.
Pictures:
The underside of the toaster with 4 of the 6 screws (in each corner) that I had to remove
The inside "mechanics" of the toaster
About a quarter of the crumbs I cleaned out of this beast
Close-up of the switches, the electromagnet and the control board
Close-up of the electromagnet
View of when the toaster is engaged
Security bits I bought on ebay
The fixed toaster
Tools:
Screwdriver
Security bit set
Swiss Army Knife
Compressor

Materials:
N/A

Cost:
$0.00

Time:
30 min

Savings:
$75.00

Conclusion:
It works great. I love being able to fix things. That’s a large part of how we can afford our life style on one income. Wouldn’t want to change a thing!

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